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  #1  
Old 03-24-2012, 04:13 PM
NorthernLights NorthernLights is offline
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Default 2012 Oil Change - R/T 5.7 & SVT 3.6

I just changed the oil on both cars and have the following:

R/T with 1700 miles on the odometer - Of course you have to remove the rubber cover from the bottom of the engine which is four small bolts and nothing to it. Drained the oil with no event. But man, that oil filter was on there like it was welded on at the factory so had to buy an oil wrench cap at AutoZone to get it off. I purchase Oil Filter "C" Cap Wrench (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=153159_0_0_) and it took some elbow grease but finally got it to move. Also, be sure to check for the traditional stuck on oil filter gasket as it was stuck to the engine and not to the filter when I removed it. It's been this way for every new Charger I've purchased. Seven quarts 5W20 synthetic and you're back in business.

SXT 3.6L with 700 miles on the odometer - Wow! This was a breeze to change the oil on this baby. Pull the rubber cover on the bottom of the engine, drain the oil completely, then using a 15/16 socket go to the top of the engine and remove the oil filter. Pull the old O ring off the cap and replace it with a slightly oiled new one. Then put the new oil filter on the cap - it only goes on one way and snaps in - then screw it back on. There was no mess and the easiest oil filter I've ever changed. Put the bolt back in the oil pan and then using six quarts of 5W30 synthetic fill it back up again.

With both of them I started it up after the job was done to check for leaks and then replaced the bottom rubber engine cover - torque to 35 foot pounds as per the labeling on the cover.

Without a doubt both were very easy to do and I was amazed in the sunshine all the shiny metal in not only the filters but suspended in the oil.

P.S. We'll be changing out the grill on the R/T tomorrow...getting rid of the factory chrome that came with the car and going with the all black we got from Steve White Motors. Will let you know how pulling the front fascia works out.
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Last edited by NorthernLights; 03-25-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernLights View Post
Also, be sure to check for the traditional stuck on oil filter gasket as it was stuck to the engine and not to the filter when I removed it.
Where was this info a few days ago. I fell victim.
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:12 AM
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Congrats man on your day of being with your babies.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:33 AM
Skyfixer Skyfixer is offline
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Default Oil Change

Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:26 AM
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Very good post! reps to you!

Jeff
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:24 PM
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0W-40 is what's recommended for my new 5.7.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
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0W-40 is what's recommended for my new 5.7.
That is for the 6.4L engines, did you see it on a leaflet in your manual? Your 5.7 takes 5W20.
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Last edited by Sirhc; 04-05-2012 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:20 PM
NorthernLights NorthernLights is offline
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I agree 100%...5W20 in the 5.7 per the owners manual.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:41 PM
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There's a postcard type insert in the owner's manual which states:
"USER GUIDE ADDENDUM
THIS ADDENDUM UPDATES INFORMATION ABOUT MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES IN SECTION 7 OF YOUR OWNERS MANUAL AND IN MAINTAINING YOUR VEHICLE OF YOUR USER GUIDE
Engine Oil Selection
For best protection and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) categories of SM or SM/CF

The manufacturer recommends the use of a full synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil or equivalent.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:24 AM
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You'll also notice on the bottom corner that it says SRT8. Can you please check your yellow card again?
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